Last week on one of my Instagram posts I had you guess how heavy the tile was that I shoved into my carry-on luggage (120lbs FYI). I got a great deal on those amazing golden yellow Heath Dimensional tiles (see picture above) because they were in the seconds section of the Heath Tile factory. So, today I thought it would be fun AND helpful to do a blog about places you can source tile from. You have more options these days than just that orange big-box store. Not hating on them, I shop there all the time! This list is by no means all encompassing but just some places I've sourced tile from before. 
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Big-Box Stores
In the past few years, big-box stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, and Menards (shout out to my home state of Wisconsin) have worked hard to improve and enlarge their selection of tile. You can now find reasonably priced tile that is on trend AND in stock that previously you would have had to order from a specialty tile store. 

​Floor & Décor is another big-box store that I love and source tile from all the time. I mean it’s nothing but a big warehouse full of tile and flooring! What more does one need? However, they are not in every state. . .yet. I'm really into this aqua hexagon Adessi tile shown in the bathroom below. 

Online
​Yes, you can totally order tile online these days and have it shipped directly to your door. Depending on how much tile you buy, it may get delivered by UPS, FedEx, or a specialty freight company.

A lot of popular tile companies these days are primarily online. They might have a showroom or two you can go to and see the tile in person before making your selection. My current favorites, in no particular order are: Heath, Fireclay Tile, TileBar, Mecury Mosaics, and Zia Tile. I may or may not be collaborating with one of these brands in the near future so stay tuned!

You can also find some good deals on trendy tile at places like Wayfair and Overstock. I love the handmade look of these black square tiles from Ivy Hill Tile found on Wayfair. Believe it or not, $8.29 per sq. ft. for this tile is reasonable considering some other places it would be upwards of $20 per sq. ft. The price we pay for trends, am I right? 

Local
It’s worth it to do a little research and see if you have any tile makers in you area. I’m a fan of supporting local businesses when possible. Handcrafted Tile, Inc is a Phoenix company that offers a large range of Mexican tile and hand carved stone. They also have a dedicated department that can create custom tiles and murals! I love their San Miguel Series Star and Cross tile as seen below in the bathroom designed by Kate Williams Design.

Non-Traditional
I love to think outside the box and get materials from unexpected places. Almost every large city has at least one building material salvage store. They are literally just warehouses full of stuff that has been pulled out of homes and buildings during demo. Locally, I like to go to Stardust to see what gems I can find. Habitat for Humanity ReStore stores are all over the country and another great place to look for salvaged tile. These types of places typically have smaller amounts of tile, so they are perfect for smaller projects like a bar backsplash or powder room. Bonus, you're saving tile from going into the landfill. 

​Lastly, check out online market places like Craigslist, Facebook, and OfferUp. You can often find people trying to get rid of left over, brand new tile. 

Tips and Tricks When Tile Shopping

• Look for seconds or overstock sections at stores and online. These tiles are discounted because they are usually no longer being made, have minor defects, or were returned.
• Purchase up to 10-15% overage to account for waste and recuts. You don’t want to get towards the end of your project and run out of tile!
• Make sure if you do have to go back and buy more tile that you are buying from the same dye lot. There can be slight but noticeable variations in color from lot to lot.
• A lot of stores and some online retailers allow you to return unused tile. Check the return policy before purchasing.
• There is a difference between floor and wall tile. Floor tile is thicker and made to be more durable. Keep this in mind when shopping.

Is there somewhere you love to get tile from that I didn't mention above? Let me know in the comments below. 

​When I featured my last “Design To Sell” home on my Instagram, so many of you asked for a guide on painting cabinets. So, today's blog is all about that! I love painting existing cabinets for two big reasons. It saves waste from going into the landfill, and saves SO much money. I like to use that money for other parts of a project, like beautiful tile and appliances. My hope is that the tips and tricks below will help your cabinet painting experience go as smooth as possible. 

Tools and Supplies
The first thing you need to do before even touching your cabinets is gather all your tools and supplies. The tools needed will vary a little depending if you are going to roll/brush on the paint or use a paint sprayer. I personally like the results of a paint sprayer but there is a bit of a learning curve to getting the hang of using one. 
 
If you are going to use rollers and paint brushes, getting the highest quality that falls within your budget is really important. Higher quality brushes don’t shed bristles and allow for the smoothest finish possible. The first time I painted cabinets I used some pretty crappy brushes and had to pick so many bristles out of the wet paint. It was maddening! Purdy is the go to brand for professional painters and the Nylox line gives the smoothest finish.
 
For paint, I love the durability of Behr's Satin Enamel Interior/Exterior paint. If you are painting cabinets that are not solid wood or don’t have a wood veneer, like metal or plastic, I’d recommend talking to your local paint store for suggestions on the best primer and paint for your particular cabinet material. For primer, you can’t go wrong with Kilz.

Other items you’ll need include drop cloths, medium and fine grit sandpaper, painters tape, cleaning rags, screwdriver, paint can opener, containers to hold paint, and some kind of cleaning solution. I prefer using TSP.
 
Ok, NOW we can go over how to paint cabinets.

Step 1: Prepare
Spending the extra time to really make sure your work area is set up and cabinets are ready for paint will ensure you get the best results possible. You’ll want to remove all your cabinet doors and drawers, and remove all the hardware. Could you try painting your cabinets with everything in place? Sure, but it’ll take you twice as long and you won’t like the final results. 

​If you are spraying your cabinets you will also want tape plastic sheeting or paper everywhere you don’t want paint to go! You can see in the two videos below what it looks like with everything taped and protected.

Next, you need to do a really good cleaning of the cabinets to remove any built up residue and dirt. Use whatever cleaner you prefer and give a good scrub to all the doors, drawers and cabinet fronts. Then, lightly sand everything so the primer and paint have a rough surface to adhere to. Don’t forget to take a damp rag and wipe off all the dust that accumulates from sanding. You could also try using a liquid sander/deglosser like this one from Jasco. I don’t have any experience using this but if you’re a fan of the blog 'Chris Loves Julia', you know they swear by it. If you try it out, let me know how it works!
 
If your cabinets have imperfections like scrapes and holes, you’ll want to take the extra step of filling them with wood filler. Otherwise those imperfections will show through the final paint finish. Don’t forget to sand those areas really well once the wood filler dries.

​Step 2: Prime
Priming gets it’s own section because it’s that important! A lot of people skip this step because they think all in one paint (paint and primer) is enough, but it’s not! Cabinets go through a lot of wear and tear so you want the most durable finish possible. Primer allows this by ensuring a really good bond of the paint to the cabinets. Also, primer is really cheap compared to paint. You’re going to save money doing one coat of primer and two coats of paint vs. three to four coats of paint alone. 

Step 3: Paint
Finally, time to paint! You should only have to do two coats if you pick a high quality paint and primed like I told you to. Most paint requires two hours between coats but depending on the temperature and moisture in the air, you may have to wait longer. Read the directions on the paint can for further guidance. 
 
To ensure a really smooth and durable finish, you may want to lightly sand between coats of paint with very fine grit sandpaper. This will help cut down on imperfections and ensure good adhesion between coats. Take a dry, soft towel to wipe down everything before applying the second coat.
 
One really helpful thing to do when painting the doors is to do two coats on the backside THEN flip them over to paint the front. I find these little pyramid things really helpful to lay the doors on.  There is virtually no surface area for the paint to stick to. 
 
A big first time DIY cabinet painter mistake is not giving enough time for the paint to fully dry and cure before putting doors and drawers back in place. If you don't wait, the doors and drawers will stick to the cabinet fronts and lift off the layers of paint. Again, consult the paint can to see how long you need to wait. While waiting for the paint to fully cure you'll also want to avoid cleaning or wiping the cabinets. 

Step 4: Reassemble
Finally, you can put your cabinets back together!  Add some snazzy new knobs or pulls, and your cabinets will look brand new. I love the hardware from Rejuvenation. If you are looking for more budget friendly options, Amazon is a great place to look. I love these brass pulls!
 
If you decide to tackle painting your cabinets I would love to see the before and after pictures! Who knows, maybe I’ll feature them sometime on the blog or Instagram.

Whether I’m working on a “Design To Sell” property, a renovation, or one of my own homes, I always try to work with as much of the existing finishes as possible. I believe this is important for a few reasons: it prevents waste from going into the landfill, it can save you A LOT of money, and most importantly with older homes it preserves historical details.  I’ve saved and worked with the original tile in many bathrooms over the years. Most of you would walk into these bathrooms before they were updated and think, “For sure this all needs to be ripped out”, but I will show you again and again with before and after pictures that you can update a bathroom by changing everything but the tile.

For the duplex project below you can see the lovely pink and green tile was in fantastic shape to begin with. All I did here was put a fresh coat of crisp white paint on the walls, added a molding detail and painted it a neutral gray, updated the lighting, and put in a new shower head. Now how cool does that tile look?

The midcentury modern cutie below had amazing powder blue tile for the tub surround and countertops. All I needed to add was a unique lighting fixture and mirror, new shower system, modern glass shower door, and a fresh coat of paint on the vanity. 

The tile in the bathroom below is a classic and actually inspired what we did for tile in the other bathroom and kitchen. As with the other bathrooms I updated the lighting, mirror, and plumbing fixtures but also added a totally new vanity. This is probably my favorite tile saving bathroom! Which do you like most?

​As you can see with these bathrooms doing simple updates like getting new lighting, plumbing fixtures, and a good paint job can make old tile feel new again.
 
BONUS CONTENT!
 
Below is a sneak peak at some of the existing tile I’m working with on a new project. I can’t wait to show you the full before and after!

​As you already know staging is a part of my "Design To Sell" process and my Mesa project needed a ton of staging as it was empty to start with.

There are several reasons why staging your home before selling is important.
 
Helps buyers envision themselves living in the space

​Makes your home stand out online.

The 2021 Profile of Home Staging report from the National Association of Realtors found that 23% of seller’s agents reported an increase of one to five percent of the dollar value offered by buyers compared to homes that were not staged.  While 1-5% might not seem like a lot, that’s $3,000 to $15,000 on a $300,000 home. A word of caution, it is important to closely track how much you spend on staging so you don't cancel out the increase in the value of your home. Staging is something I do as a courtesy for my clients as part of the listing process. I'll work with some of the things they have and then bring the rest at no cost to them because I know it makes such a big impact! But if you don't have a James Judge near you, work with your listing agent to understand costs and options accordingly.

​It is always a good idea to roll on a fresh coat of paint throughout your home before selling.  A crisp paint job can do wonders in helping your home look its best and neutral paint colors are the way to go. Not only do neutral colors help brighten up a space, but they also allow the other features in a room to shine.  Below are the six Benjamin Moore paint colors I love to use when getting a house ready for the market. 

Some of you are probably thinking neutral is so boring, where’s the color!? You can still have color in your home when trying to sell but keep it to small doses and do it via accessories and artwork.  Staging is where I bring color in with all of my projects.  
 
A quick note on choosing a white paint color: Never, EVER do a pure white! Usually pure white comes off looking cold and even a little blue, especially in rooms with little to no natural light. Would you like me to do a blog about picking the best white paint colors? Let me know in the comments below.

I don’t just list a house to sell, I design it to sell so it gets top dollar and sells fast. People struggle with putting money into their home when they are on the way out the door but it is amazing how some small changes can make a BIG impact. This is why as a part of my selling process I "Design To Sell" all of my listings. Think of "Design To Sell" as a mini house facelift to get it ready for market.

I left my little bubble in Central Phoenix, shocking I know, to list a home in Mesa that was formerly used as a rental property. Only staging the space (more on this in another blog) wouldn’t have been enough to get top dollar, as it really needed some design updates to function for today’s buyers.
 
"Design To Sell" starts in the front yard. Curb appeal is a home’s first impression and potential homebuyers definitely judge a book by its cover. When able I make changes to the front so when people step out of their car they are excited to be there.  Unfortunately this home was in a planned community with an HOA that didn’t allow many changes. I did make sure landscaping was on point and all little exterior maintenance items were taken care of.  Things I would typically do to the front of other homes include painting the front door, adding shutters, refreshing the landscaping, adding potted plants, and if possible create a seating area. It’s all about creating a destination in the front that pulls people in.

Inside it is key to focus on people’s favorite spaces: kitchens and bathrooms.
 
In this kitchen I did a few things. To freshen up the cabinets I painted the lowers a mid-tone gray and the uppers white. I also made sure all the appliances matched for continuity. To finish off the space I added new countertops, backsplash, and cabinet hardware. It may not be a brand new kitchen but it does appeal much more to the style of kitchens buyers are looking for today. 

​The primary bathroom needed some simple updates to bring it more inline with today’s bathroom design trends. This included painting the vanity, installing new sink faucets, and swapping out the vanity light. Oh, let’s not forget about painting over the sponge painted walls with a soothing light gray. Not a lot of money was spent in this bathroom to make a big impact. 

​If the budget doesn’t allow you to change a design element, work with it or around it. The fireplace in the living room had really ugly beige tile that looked outdated when surrounded by all the beige walls. I simply pained the fireplace surround a darker accent color more similar to the tile, and the walls a light gray. When I added curtains and accessories, the existing tile just blended in with the updated surroundings. 

With Design To Sell there are three design elements I focus on throughout the entire home: lighting, curtains, and paint.
 
Lighting

Lighting is a really easy way to add updated style to a home. Having enough light is also important so buyers can really see each room and envision themselves living there. There are so many sources for great lighting and you can always find fixtures that align with today’s current trends for a reasonable price. My go to place is Amazon. Who doesn’t love two day shipping?
 
Curtains
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Curtains can add a ton of style to a space.  They also soften sound, add texture and allow you to play with color in a low risk way. Hot tip, extend curtains to the ceiling when you can. It makes the windows seem bigger and can also help if your windows are different sizes/heights like they were with this Mesa project.

Paint
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​A fresh coat of paint does wonders for freshening up a space, and making it look crisp and clean. In this home we put a fresh coat of paint on every wall, and painted the cabinets in the kitchen and bathrooms. Sticking with neutral colors will appeal to more buyers but it also makes rooms brighter and feel more spacious.
 
The last thing I make sure gets done during "Design To Sell" is basic maintenance and repair. This is the least fun part of the process and isn’t really related to design but it is important that all the little details are taken care of. You don’t want to give buyers a reason to de-value your home when basic maintenance is quick and generally inexpensive.
 
Ok so I just rambled on about "Design To Sell" and all its glory but you might be wondering with this current housing market here in Phoenix, and in most of other parts of the country, is "Design To Sell" even necessary? Sure, homes can sell themselves but they aren’t getting top dollar. People are willing to pay extra for an updated home. Also, people don’t want to buy a house; they want to buy a home. I think "Design To Sell" achieves this and why in this market I still do it for all of my listings. 

Midcentury modern (MCM) design  is one of my favorite styles to work with. I'm pretty sure it will never go out of style and I fully support that!  
 
While midcentury modern design can be a little difficult to define in concrete terms, it is generally accepted that this period of design lasted from the mid-1930s to the mid-1960s, and spanned architecture, furniture and graphic design. Some main key characteristics of midcentury modern design include clean lines, simple forms, and an emphasis on function. 

​I injected some MCM style into this ranch that had just been flipped. Yes, I flipped a flip! The home was still not living up to its full potential after the first go around.

The front of the house was first up. You know by now I love using wood slats and they were a perfect use in this project. It's a cheap design element with high visual impact. Painting this feature light blue was an easy way to incorporate a pop of MCM color. I continued the use of long clean horizontal lines with the alternating sections of turf and crushed granite. I also added additional outdoor living space by creating a front patio. Who wouldn't want to sit on that patio and watch gorgeous Phoenix sun sets? Lets not forgot the cute pendent light and large house numbers I used to round out the front curb appeal. 

​Inside I used a neutral color palette for the walls and floor. Warmth and visual interest was achieved by bringing in brass fixtures and MCM furniture. The great thing about midcentury modern furniture is that you can find great pieces at all prices points. You can spend the big bucks and hunt for authentic stuff at retro stores, or find new pieces at pretty much any furniture retailer. If you're like me and love a good deal, you can head to your local thrift store or you might even find a gem on the side of the road. You wouldn't believe some of the MCM furniture people have thrown out here in Phoenix during bulk trash time. That's right, I've been known to drive the alleys of Phoenix a time or two in search of furniture castoffs. 

I think one of the easiest ways to incorporate midcentury modern design is through color. So many great colors were used during the time period. I used a very MCM shade of powdered blue throughout this project by painting the front and back door, and scoring these reasonably priced Eames style barstools on Amazon. 

If you're looking for some good MCM paint colors, I really like this palette from Benjamin Moore. Tell me which is your favorite in the comments below!

Phoenix is one of the absolute best places to spend time outdoors. We may live in a desert, but you can create a resort-like atmosphere in your backyard with some simple design flair.

For this post, I’m taking you to my very own backyard. I adore entertaining and welcoming friends and family over. I wanted to create an outdoor space that was perfect for hanging out.

As you can see from the before and after photos, this was quite the project. But it added so much value to my home and makes every moment outside that much more special.
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Here are my tips for making your backyard your new favorite destination.

First, have components outside that draw you and your guests out from inside. Here, I have a Superior Linear vent-free outdoor gas fireplace from Modern Blaze that looks so warm and inviting, you can’t help but want to go outside and get cozy.
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Want one of these for yourself? Use promo code HJUDGE10 for 10% off this fireplace when you shop Modern Blaze.

Make moving between inside and outside seamless by designing outdoor spaces that feel like an extension of your inside design. Here, I used a restoration hardware chandelier that has similar features to my indoor décor. It’s also fun and unique and makes the backyard a thoughtfully designed space.

Also, think about maximizing the functionality of your outdoor space. You have living and dining rooms indoors, so why not have them outdoors, as well?
In my lounge and living area, I added comfy Target patio furniture  that’s a dream to relax outside on. And with my outdoor dining set-up, dining al fresco is a breeze.

I love incorporating different layers and textures within a single space. It creates lots of opportunities for your eyes to wander. Here, I blended large metal black screens and Wall Theory wood planks on the fireplace.

The contrast of the materials here makes such as cool impact, don’t you think? The materials work really well together despite being so different!

Splash! Pools are a Phoenix home must-have. For ours, we didn’t want to make it too big, because we wanted room for all the other great entertaining spaces in the backyard.

When you’re adding a pool, think about proportions to the size of your yard. Our pool is 9 feet by 21 feet long, which we think is just the right size for our space.

Also, be mindful of the tile. Pool tile can easily become an eyesore. For ours, we blended the pool finishes with the tile. We used white Pebble Tec in the pool and paired it with white tile from Floor & Decor , that matches the house. It gives it a cohesive feel that also makes the space seem roomier.

For the spa, we used black tile to add some contrast. As you can see in the photo above, it almost looks like there’s a black box in the pool, which is a really striking feature.

Want even more space in your backyard? No problem. Build a rooftop deck, and you instantly get more entertaining room. I chose to go with a firepit from EcoSmart Fire because while it is modern and sleek. it is also safe for when all the furbabies come to enjoy the sunset view with Andy and I. 

The spacing of ours worked really well because were able to build it on top of our garage. That way, it didn’t negatively impact the space below, a win-win.

Interested in more of the items I use in my home designs? Shop home design products I’ve used myself.

You’ve probably heard of open concept kitchens, but how about an open concept bathroom?

That’s exactly what I created with my master bathroom. As you can see in the before photos, the original footprint of this bathroom was very modest. It was originally a studio bathroom for a duplex, with a tiny sink, a super-small toilet and a glass block shower.

To open it up and make it a statement space, we almost doubled the bathroom in size to really maximize the layout and functionality. And to let in lots of gorgeous natural light, I designed the vanities and shower to open to the bedroom.

Now the spaces flow together and feel larger. It was almost like magically adding on extra space to my home!
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So how exactly do you create an “open concept” bathroom? Let me show you a behind-the-scenes look at how I did it.

Of course, we gave the toilet its own private room that’s accessed from a pocket door, because, well, that deserves privacy. But for the rest of the bathroom, some amazing design finishes make it worthy of being seen from the bedroom.

That’s why the fixtures were super-important to me. As I enlarged the bathroom, I created double vanities to maximize storage and counterspace.

Here we have two elegant, eco-friendly VIGO faucets in matte black . I love VIGO products because they’re so sleek and modern, yet timeless. Their matte black finish is stunning and one of my favorites.  

Speaking of which, it’s a good idea to select fixtures that seamlessly blend with the rest of your home design’s color palette, since that will make the space feel larger. These faucets really look so crisp within this space. They’re the perfect feature to pair with the recessed mirror behind them.

Regarding the mirror, let me let you in on a little secret. The mirror is recessed because I kept the original brick exterior wall.

How did the brick wall fit in with the bathroom? Well, it lent itself to this really unique opportunity to create a tile shelf with the countertop vanities and the faucets. It really blends the old and the new together to create a cool and modern space.

Besides opening up a space, another way to create flow is to carry through details from one part of the house into the other. In this case, the wood slat detail that’s featured throughout the house also continues into the bathroom and goes all the way into the wet room, which we’ll cover next. Learn how to create your own stunning wood ceiling look.

Some people might call this a shower, but I call it a wet room. Having the bathtub and shower in the same space creates a spa-like sanctuary.

The design came from necessity, but it ended up working fabulously. We wanted to ensure there was a bathtub in the bathroom, but we didn’t have room to separate it. So instead, we included everything within one space. Talk about multitasking!

The wet room was designed by creating a wall of glass that features the door to enter. In the process of pouring the new foundation for the bedroom, we were able to create a zero-entry shower and have the water flow into a drain hidden by black pebbles that surround the tub. It’s like bringing the outside in, which is such an interesting detail – sort of like taking a vacation right in your own home.

On the walls, we did a matte black tile from floor to ceiling. I absolutely adore VIGO’s Kingsley Shower Panels in Matte Black for a sleek and modern look. Plus, they have innovative hydrotherapy features that elevate your bathing experience.  

Both of these VIGO shower panels are so relaxing because they have their own shower heads, their own spray jets and their own shower wands, so you can target any pain points you have. This is such a therapeutic water feature that I’ve learned I can’t live without.

Not only that, but the matte black finish was perfect to go with the matte black tile against the walls. All of this is open to the glass walls that we added to frame out this wet room space, which features the tub within the center. The glass really helps to bring more natural light into the space to make it so much brighter and so much more modern.

The end of this space was framed with floor-to-ceiling glass to give an indoor/outdoor effect. We planted large bamboo outside that, within a year, should give us lush green privacy. We’ll be able to see the bamboo through the glass doors, transporting us to a tropical oasis right from our desert Phoenix home.

There you have it. What once was an afterthought in the home became a gorgeous space I can admire from my bedroom. The wet room has become one of my absolute favorite places to spend time in, to soak and unwind after a busy day designing.

Want to see more of my projects? Check out my Phoenix home designs.

Wood? On a ceiling?!

It might seem like a weird combination, but as you can see in my very own Phoenix Ashland Place Historic District home, it creates an amazingly unique appearance.

I’ve used the wood slatted detail design for years on projects, but I’ve always used it vertically, usually on exteriors to create the look of screens, add privacy or add visual interest.

For my house, I was looking for a way to unify the home and bring together the parts of the home that were built at different periods, so that everything flowed together. The wood achieved that and made a notice-me impact. It also added warmth throughout the home, which I adore.

Flat ceilings can be overlooked, but using this wood detail look can really transform them and give them texture and character. Take it from me – here’s how to do it.

Furring strips are thin, long strips of wood that you can typically get from any home improvement or hardware store. They aren’t typically used for decoration, but rather construction. As you’ll see, they aren’t a very refined product, but they do the trick to create a wood ceiling look.
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Head to your local construction or home improvement store to buy them. They’re usually sold in bundles. As you’ll see from the next step, you’ll want to use the best ones, so purchase more than you think you’ll need to cover the ceiling area. 

​Next, sort through your bundles to choose the highest-quality furring strips. Look for the color you like (if you’ll be leaving the strips raw), plus smooth textures and straight strips. The good news is, you can usually return the ones you don’t use, so don’t be afraid to be picky!

​Look for an area on the ceiling to start that makes sense. Usually, you’ll want to start against the wall or near a ceiling object and work out from there. If you start in the middle of an empty space on the ceiling, you might mis-measure your placement and create a design that isn’t uniform. We don’t want that. 

​Draw pencil lines on the ceiling to guide you during the installation. It’s always better to plan and be prepared than to try to fix mistakes during the process. *wink* 

​Use furniture nails to attach the strip where it’ll meet the rafters. Be careful with your fingers as you install! You’re precious cargo here!

​Use another furring strip as a spacer so that you install the strips equally. You’re going for a unified, polished look here.

​When you’re installing furring strips around lights, vents, etc., create a frame using the 1” x 2” x 8’s so that the strips connect equally. Check out the photo above to get an idea of what it should look like. 

​You can keep the furring strips raw, or you can paint them. You can go as natural or wild as you’d like with the color, depending on whatever type of look you’re going for. 

As you can see in my pool house, the new wood ceiling was such a big hit, I decided to keep a good thing going and continue the design all the way down along the wall.
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I’d love to see your results when you try this wood furring strip technique in your own home. Tag me on Instagram @thehousejudge so I can see your creations!